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In the mountains of Japan, tradition and experimentation come together in an unexpected way. For Taisuke Sato, founder of Haccoba, sake isn’t just a drink. It’s a living expression of culture, history and place. But the sake he creates doesn’t fit neatly into modern definitions of the craft.
While most people associate sake with polished rice and precise brewing techniques, Haccoba’s approach reaches further back in time. Sato and his team ferment rice alongside wild ingredients gathered from the mountains, including herbs, fruits and spices, creating a sake that feels both ancient and refreshingly new.
Reviving an Ancient Philosophy of Sake
From today’s perspective, this method might seem experimental. But for Sato, it’s something much deeper.
“This style of sake brewing has existed for a long time,” he explains. “I find it culturally fascinating and beautiful.”
Historically, sake was far less constrained than it is now. Brewers incorporated what was available in their environment, resulting in diverse, expressive flavors. Haccoba is reclaiming that freedom by embracing what Sato describes as a “free, unconstrained sake.”
That philosophy naturally lends itself to creative collaboration.
A Thoughtful Approach to Tea and Sake
When partnering with Smith Teamaker, Sato’s team took a careful approach. Rather than altering or layering the tea excessively, they chose restraint.
“Smith Teamaker’s tea is already complete and refined on its own,” Sato says. “We felt that adding or manipulating it too much as a secondary ingredient wouldn’t be quite right.”
Instead, the goal was balance. The sake brewing process and the tea’s complexity complement each other naturally. It was less about transforming the tea and more about creating harmony between two crafts.
That philosophy naturally lends itself to creative collaboration.
Why Tokyo Twilight
The collaboration centered around one specific blend, Tokyo Twilight.
The choice wasn’t accidental. When paired with Haccoba’s sake, something clicked immediately, both in flavor and in feeling.
Crafting Flavor Through Precision
The brewing process itself required just as much intention as the concept.
Tokyo Twilight’s profile is delicate yet complex, so the team adjusted their method to preserve its nuance. During the later stages of fermentation, the tea is extracted slowly at a low temperature.
“The aroma is quite complex, but at the same time very delicate,” Sato explains. “This method allows the tea’s umami and the aromas of various herbs to come through very clearly.”
The result is a layered, aromatic sake that feels both subtle and expressive. Each sip reveals something new.
A Shared Cultural Language
Beyond flavor, this collaboration tells a broader story about cultural exchange.
Sato sees Tokyo Twilight itself as a reflection of two worlds, Portland’s craft culture and Japanese traditions. By bringing Haccoba into the mix, the collaboration becomes something even more meaningful.
“I think Tokyo Twilight expresses a fusion of Portland’s craft culture and Japanese culture,” he says. “And by collaborating, we can express that fusion even further.”
It’s not just about blending ingredients. It’s about connecting philosophies, places and people.
This collaboration will be released later in the summer, offering a limited opportunity to experience this one of a kind sake.